Tuesday, July 2, 2013

A Roman mini-break

Two days in Rome might not be enough to give a proper review and blog filled with tips, but I'm gonna try it anyway, because the other travelblogs I wrote on Russia, Thailand and Barcelona are well-ridden.

The good thing about Rome is that, even though on the map it looks quite big, two days is plenty to cross of most things on my to-do list.

Vatican.
I promised my mother to visit the Vatican, so I did. Having booked a ticket in advance online, I had a timeslot in which I had to show up. I had to hurry, but in the end, nobody checked my time, in fact, the lady at the booth didn't even look at me, period. This kind of behaviour was exemplory for how tourists are treated in the Vatican, when I asked a lady where to show my ticket, she told me to go back downstairs, because "how should I know? I just work here". After explaining that I just came from downstairs, and they told me to go upstairs, she yelled at me "I'm just trying to help you."
What I found hilarious at the Vatican, or more specific the Sixtene Chappel, were the guards. In a poor attempt to keep the peace, it's them who are the noisiest, screaming "Silencio!!", "No photo!!" and "Get down the stairs!!" every other minute at the admiring, quiet crowd. The other guards filled their time playing with their smartphones.

Market.
I found the Campa del Fiori highly disappointing (just sayin'), so do yourself a favour and go towards the indoor market of Testaccio. It's covered, there's some locals doing their groceryshops and they sell more than travelsize bottles of olive-oil and fun multi-coloured pasta. There should be a market at 'Porta Portese', but only on sunday, and my 48 hours did not cover that day.

Coloseum-area.
As soon as you walk out the subwaystation, you bump into the ruins of the Coloseum. I didn't go inside (I saw a Turkish style Coloseum last april and no offence, when you've seen one, you've seem them all), but the area is really nice to walk around in. Next to the
Colosseum is Palatine hill with the foro Romano; if you walk up the exit you see a lot as well. If you walk towards Via dei Fori Imperiali, you will notice some awesome historic grounds and buildings (red arrows).

Spanish steps.
If you have ever climed the stairs in front of the Sacre Couer in Paris, the Spanish steps should be a piece of cake. Now, I unfortunately missed it, but my friend suggested to go to Via Margutta, near the Spanish steps, in the Spagna area.




Hostel.
I stayed in the Zen House B&B, cheap, small and a personal touch. The host / owner is a former traveller himself and he basically started the hostel that he would have loved to stay in. This makes it like you're staying in the guestroom of a friends house. He cooks breakfast personally, gives you tips when you want to, or leaves you alone.

Cinema.
For those of you who are anything like me and always forget how tiresome it is to walk, walk, and then walk some more, while at one point desperately longing for the cool and quiet of a cinema; there is one at Metrostation Barberini, called... Multisala Barberini. And yes, they do original language as well. I will not comment on the movie I saw. Let's just say this: I find Brad Pitt combating zombies at fifty as sexy as when he cheated on either Thelma or Louise when I was 14.

Museum.
Missed the Vatican, Palatine Hill or the Pantheon? Don't worry. The whole city is one big open air museum, with plenty of historical buildings / ruins / statues / parks to look at. You might even get the accidental history lesson, like I did. I overheard an American fellow explain some good old Gods to his holiday-party:
"So he went out and hooked up with Venus. Cause that's what you did when you were really cool in those days. You bagged yourself a godess."

Other than young Americans on their gapyear 'doing Europe', be prepared for:
Sigarettes: everybody smokes in Italy, from police-officers, to students, from people preparing your food to the homeless beggars. Electronic cigarettes are up-and-coming in Italy.
Police-sirenes: every hour or so I was shaken by sirens, whether they came from undercover vehicles, firetrucks or proper police motorcycles: Rome was siren-galore. The undercover vehicles were the best, with one guy behind the wheel and the other one hanging out of the passenger-window, holding the blazing siren, the whole thing looked kindof cute.
Guns: every guy in uniform apparently is allowed to carry a gun. From the actual police officers, to museum-guards, to the trainstation personel. Very odd.
Religion: I realized Italy is pretty catholic, with the pope living there and all. But I didn't realize how big religion was, till I noticed all the nuns and priests in the wild, chains with crosses, people reading the bible on the train, making me feel kindof embarrased for my copy of 'Als ik auto had kunnen rijden...', but ah well. 
Transportation: Italians travel by scooter, Smart car or Fiat. This is great, but if you're depending on public transportation: the subway is fine and affordable, but the trains suck.
Dealing with Italians: so, this might come across pretty pityfull, but I found it highly gratifying to start talking Dutch when my English would just trigger angry stares, wild handgestures and a stream of uncomprehensible Italian jibberish. Just to return the mutual feeling of despair when dealing with ignorant Vatican-personal, train-conductors or other locals.

Additional tips:

Another friend suggested 'Il ritrovo del Gusto' for dinner. Unfortunately by the time I got this message I had already worked my way through a quatro fromagio pizza. Which, by the way comes out of the oven looking like a 'cheese fondue pizza', because non of the original cheeses are retrievable, but, who cares.
Same friend suggested a cornershop place at Piazza della Pace for coffee.

Put unused napkins from fast-food in your bag or pockets. This tip isn't limited to Rome, obviously. You never know when you gotta go and all you have at your disposal is a dirty Dixie at the side of the road without any toiletpaper. Or something.

You can find a proper tour-guide to Rome here, it's a pdf, and it will work on your e-reader as well.

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