Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Barcelona olae

It's been 14 years since I last was in Barcelona. You know how it is; you're on holiday in Salou, have to do something culturally responsible, ergo, a daytrip to Barcelona. Well, racing up and down the Ramblas, cut the queue of Segrada Familia, having a tapa and spending the rest of the day in a Mango flagship-store was my 19-year-olds idea of making the most of it. But here's some tips on how you could do it. The 'M' refers to the useable Metrostation.

1. Negroni
Here's what happened. Traveling alone is one thing, but going out by yourself is another one. But it's my last night and I wanted a cocktail. The 'all cocktails 3 euro'-joint around the corner of my apartment-style room in the Barcelona Rooms has formed a queue of students with free-drinks-vouchers. I don't queue for drinks, especially not on a monday. I also refuse to consume a cocktail, or anything else actually, in a shop with plastic furniture and bright tl-light. So in the next appropriate bar I asked if they did cocktails. "No," the girl covered in tattoos told me, before whispering "go to Joaquín Costas street. Negroni." And that was it. She turned to the bar to clean some more glasses. Negroni is hidden away behind one-way dark-tinted windows and takes some searching. The whole joint breathes mystery. I sit down and order a pina-colada at the man behind the bar. His clean, black shirt has two small red buttons on the collar and after a while I spot the black tie. He pushes the green-rimmed glasses back on his nose and asks me why I ordered a pina-colada. "I don't mind making it for you, I just want to know what you like about it." When I tell him I just really like coconut and sweet drinks, another girl joins in the conversation. In a heavy Catalan accent, or a cute drunk slurr, I'm not sure, she explains that this is the best bar in town, and that I should let the bartender just fix me a drink. A drink that he finds suitable.
When you are in Barcelona. In a dark bar called Negroni with a very, very good bartender who with the greatest care lovingly grates lemons, crushes ice and slices mint, you let the man fix you a drink.
And that's when I had my first Polynesian cocktail.

2. Montserrat
Highly recommended by a friend of mine. It's a hillside outside of town, but well worth the journey. Apparently Montserrat is an area with a lot of energy, like the Bermuda triangle. I lost a lot of energy whilst climbing the hills, but eh, it was nice, peacefull, people greeting each other with a lot of 'Olae's' and a smashing view. Wear proper shoes and take plenty of food and drink with you, because there are no hot-dog cars of mobile ice-cream vans along the way.

3. Get lost
Seriously. Just get lost in Raval and Born. As soon as you let go of the map, you will see so much more (keep map in bag, don't throw it away). Look up at the walls of the appartments, the balconies, the religic memorabilia, street art and mozaic tiling. Even the laundry hanging from the windows is well worth a view. Second hand lovers should accidentally find their way to Carrer de la Riera Baixa, but that's all I'm giving away.

4. Boat trip
My plan was 'there is no plan. Except I want to be on a boat.' And the fun thing about Barcelona is, it's by the water, so there's boats. On which you can just sit and relax, because there is little else to do than to just sit and watch the water. M-Drassanes

5. Parc de la Ciutadella
Forget Parc Guell. Seriously. If you want green grass, some fountains, flowers, statues, rundown buildings and proper orange-trees, go to parc de la Ciutadella, it's much more fun than the famous Parc Güell and a lot less tourists. On the downside: the conartists instead of the streetartists. So let this be a warning: if someone wants you to sign something, for the handicapped, then asks for a donation and then wants to see your passport to check your signature: you are being conned. Other than that: lovely parc. M-Barceloneta or Arc de Triomf

6. Beach
Because it's there. Nothing says 'holiday' more than sand between your toes and in your butt. Facilities are all present (showers and toilets), and if you're lucky there's a nice grandmother willing to look after your bag because you're desperate to swim in the ocean. That sea totally kicked my sandy ass by the way, with the biggest waves I ever encountered. M-Barceloneta

7. Indulge in Food and Drinks
Experiment with tapas. Please, there's a Buger King at home too. Try something you haven't tasted before. My favourites where the fried green peppers, but patatas bravas are always tasty too. I had mine in the shadiest of all places with locals at the bar sniggering at the tourist whilst ordering one cervesa after another. But, they had a handy menu with pictures, because, well experimenting is one thing, reckless ordering and risking foodpoisoning another. I also tried every zumo (fruitjuice) that had coconut in it, but I already explained my love for pina coladas, so I'll leave it at that.

8. Gaudi
I declared the sunday 'Gaudiday'. So I did the whole round, Sagrada Familia, Casa Batlló, Casa Milà also know as la Padrera and Parc Güell. What the guy did was awesome, introducing fairytale-like aspects in everyday architecture, that's why you should see it. In all fairness, there's no way of missing Gaudi's influence in the city anyway, because it's everywhere. Mainly in the form of calenders, books, cards, tiles, etc. The queue in front of Sagrada Familia turned me off, but I discovered the option of online buying (too late, but eh). Best part of Parc Güell were a superhappy Reggea band called Microguagua who made a complete party, but I'm jolly as long as there's beards and trumpets involved anyway.

9. Tarantos
Even if you're not a big Flamenco-fan, and I'm not, you should see a show. Heritage and respect for music and local culture and all that. Here's the easy option: go to Tarantos. It'll cost you no more than 8 euros and 30 minutes of your holiday and who knows? You might be surprised. I sure was, pleasantly. The music will never grow on me, and the rhytms are confusing at best. But the outfits are something to look at, the atmosphere in the venue is friendly and the dancers know what they're doing (or at least, it seems that way). Tarantos is located at Reial square, M-Liceu.

A big thank you to Tanja, Brigit and Tom who patiently answered my 'what shall I do in Barcelona' questions.

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